Ugbu a, ọtụtụụdị uwechọrọ asambodo dị iche iche maka akwa na ụlọ ọrụ na-emepụta akwa. Akwụkwọ a na-ewebata nkenke GRS, GOTS, OCS, BCI, RDS, Bluesign, Oeko-tex asambodo akwa akwa nke nnukwu ụdị na-elekwasị anya na nso nso a.
1.GRS asambodo
GRS gbaara agbaziri agbazigharị ụwa maka akwa na uwe; GRS bụ ọkọlọtọ ngwaahịa afọ ofufo, nke mba ụwa na zuru oke nke na-ekwu maka mmanye ndị na-ere ihe nleba anya ngwaahịa, usoro njikwa njide, ihe eji emegharịgharị, ọrụ ọha na eze na omume gburugburu ebe obibi, yana mmachi kemịkalụ, nke TextileExchange malitere yana asambodo nke ndị ọzọ kwadoro. ahu.
Ebumnuche nke asambodo GRS bụ iji hụ na nkwupụta a na-ekwu na ngwaahịa dị mkpa bụ eziokwu yana na ngwaahịa a na-emepụta n'okpuru ọnọdụ ọrụ dị mma yana obere mmetụta gburugburu ebe obibi na mmetụta kemịkal. Emebere asambodo GRS iji zute ihe eweghachitere / megharia nke dị na ngwaahịa (ma emechara na nke emechara) maka nkwenye nke ụlọ ọrụ ahụ, yana iji nyochaa ọrụ metụtara ọrụ mmekọrịta mmadụ na ibe ya, omume gburugburu ebe obibi na ojiji kemịkalụ.
Itinye akwụkwọ maka asambodo GRS ga-emezurịrị ihe ise achọrọ nke traceability, nchekwa gburugburu ebe obibi, ọrụ mmadụ, akara mmeghari na ụkpụrụ izugbe.
Na mgbakwunye na nkọwapụta akụrụngwa, ọkọlọtọ a tinyekwara ụkpụrụ nhazi gburugburu ebe obibi. Ọ gụnyere ihe ndị chọrọ nlebara mmiri na-ekpofu ahịhịa siri ike yana iji kemịkal (dị ka Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) na Oeko-Tex100 siri dị). A na-etinyekwa ihe ndị metụtara ọrụ ọha na eze na GRS, nke na-achọ ịkwado ahụike na nchekwa nke ndị ọrụ, na-akwado ikike ndị ọrụ na-agbaso ụkpụrụ nke Òtù Na-ahụ Maka Ndị Ọrụ Mba Nile (ILO) setịpụrụ.
Ka ọ dị ugbu a, ọtụtụ ụdị na-eme polyester megharịrị na ngwaahịa owu emegharịrị, nke chọrọ ndị na-eweta akwa na yarn iji nye asambodo GRS na ozi azụmahịa ha maka nsochi na asambodo ika.
2.GOTS asambodo
GOTS na-akwado organic organicụkpụrụ textile; A kọwapụtara Global Standard for Organic Textile Certification (GOTS) nke ọma dị ka ihe achọrọ iji hụ na ọnọdụ akụrụngwa nke akwa akwa, gụnyere iwe ihe ubi, mmepụta gburugburu ebe obibi na mmekọrịta ọha na eze, na ịde aha iji hụ na ozi ndị ahịa gbasara ngwaahịa.
Ụkpụrụ a na-enye maka nhazi, nrụpụta, nkwakọ ngwaahịa, ịde aha, mbubata, mbupụ na nkesa nke akwa akwa. Ngwaahịa ikpeazụ nwere ike ịgụnye, mana ọnweghị oke na: ngwaahịa fiber, yarn, akwa, uwe na akwa ụlọ, ọkọlọtọ a na-elekwasị anya naanị na ihe achọrọ.
Ihe nke asambodo: textiles emepụtara site na eriri eke eke
Ogo asambodo: GOTs njikwa mmepụta ngwaahịa, nchekwa gburugburu ebe obibi, ọrụ mmadụ akụkụ atọ
Ngwaahịa chọrọ: Nwere 70% organic fiber eke, anaghị anabata ngwakọta, nwere oke 10% sịntetik ma ọ bụ eriri emegharịrị (ngwa egwuregwu nwere ike ịnwe oke 25% sịntetik ma ọ bụ eriri emegharịrị), enweghị eriri mkpụrụ ndụ ihe gbanwere.
Akwa akwa bụ otu n'ime asambodo dị mkpa maka akụrụngwa chọrọ nke ụdị isi, n'ime nke anyị ga-amata ọdịiche dị n'etiti GOTS na OCS, nke bụ ihe dị iche iche chọrọ maka ngwa nri nke ngwaahịa ahụ.
3.OCS asambodo
Ọkọlọtọ ọdịnaya organic nke OCS gbaara ama; Enwere ike itinye Standard Content Standard (OCS) na ngwaahịa niile na-abụghị nri nwere 5 ruo 100 pasent organic. Enwere ike iji ọkọlọtọ a iji nyochaa ọdịnaya ihe organic na ngwaahịa ikpeazụ. Enwere ike iji ya chọpụta akụrụngwa sitere na isi mmalite ruo na ngwaahịa ikpeazụ yana usoro a kwadoro site na ụlọ ọrụ ndị ọzọ tụkwasịrị obi. N'ime usoro nyocha nke nnwere onwe zuru oke nke ọdịnaya organic nke ngwaahịa, ụkpụrụ ndị a ga-edobe ma na-agbanwe agbanwe. Enwere ike iji ọkọlọtọ a dị ka ngwá ọrụ azụmahịa n'etiti ụlọ ọrụ iji nyere ụlọ ọrụ aka hụ na ngwaahịa ha zụtara ma ọ bụ kwụọ ụgwọ maka ihe ha chọrọ.
Ihe nke asambodo: ngwaahịa na-abụghị nri emepụtara site na akụrụngwa organic akwadoro.
Ogo asambodo: njikwa mmepụta ngwaahịa OCS.
Ngwaahịa chọrọ: Nwere ihe karịrị 5% nke akụrụngwa na-emezu ụkpụrụ organic akwadoro.
Ihe ndị OCS chọrọ maka ihe ndị sitere n'okike dị ala karịa GOTS, yabụ ndị ahịa nkezi akara ga-achọ onye na-ebubata ya ka o nye asambodo GOTS karịa asambodo OCS.
4.BCI asambodo
BCI asambodo Switzerland Good Cotton Development Association; The Better Cotton Initiative (BCI), debanyere aha na 2009 ma hiwere isi na Geneva, Switzerland, bụ ọgbakọ anaghị akwụ ụgwọ mba ụwa nwere ụlọ ọrụ nnọchite anya 4 na China, India, Pakistan na London. Ka ọ dị ugbu a, o nwere ihe karịrị otu puku otu n'ụwa niile, ọkachasị gụnyere ngalaba ịkụ owu, ụlọ ọrụ akwa owu na ụdị azụmaahịa.
BCI na-arụ ọrụ n'ọtụtụ dị iche iche nke ndị aka ya iji kwalite ọrụ BetterCotton na-eto eto n'ụwa niile yana ime ka ọsọ BetterCotton na-aga n'ihu n'usoro ọkọnọ, dabere na ụkpụrụ mmepụta owu nke BCI mepụtara. Ebumnuche kachasị nke BCI bụ ịgbanwe mmepụta owu n'ọ̀tụ̀tụ̀ zuru ụwa ọnụ site na mmepe nke ezigbo ọrụ owu, na-eme ka ezigbo owu bụrụ ngwa ahịa. N'afọ 2020, mmepụta nke ezigbo owu ga-eru pasenti 30 nke mkpokọta mmepụta owu zuru ụwa ọnụ.
BCI usoro mmepụta isii:
1.Welata mmetụta na-emerụ ahụ na usoro nchebe ihe ọkụkụ.
2.Efficient mmiri iji na ichekwa ihe mmiri.
3.Lekwasị anya na ahụike ala.
4.Chebe ebe obibi eke.
5.Care na nchebe nke eriri mma.
6. Ịkwalite ọrụ dị mma.
Ka ọ dị ugbu a, ọtụtụ ụdị na-achọ ka owu ndị na-ebubata ha si na BCI bịa, ma nwee usoro nleba anya nke BCI nke ha iji hụ na ndị na-ebubata nwere ike ịzụta ezigbo BCI, ebe ọnụ ahịa BCI dị ka nke owu nkịtị, mana onye na-eweta ya ga-agụnye. ụgwọ kwekọrọ mgbe ị na-etinye maka na iji usoro BCI na otu. Na mkpokọta, a na-enyocha ojiji BCCU site na ikpo okwu BCI (1BCCU=1kg owu lint).
5.RDS asambodo
RDS gbaara ama Humane na Onye Ọrụ gbadara ọkọlọtọ; RDS ResponsibleDownStandard (Ọkọlọtọ Responsibledown). The Humane and Responsible Down Standard bụ mmemme asambodo nke VF Corporation's TheNorthFace mebere na mmekorita ya na Textile Exchange na Dutch ControlUnion Certifications, otu asambodo nke atọ. Emere ọrụ a n'ihu ọha na Jenụwarị 2014 wee nye asambodo mbụ na June nke otu afọ ahụ. N'oge mmepe nke mmemme asambodo, onye na-enye asambodo na-arụ ọrụ na ndị na-eduga ndị na-ebubata AlliedFeather & Down na Downlite iji nyochaa na nyochaa nnabata n'oge ọ bụla nke usoro ọkọnọ ala.
Nkuku nke geese, ọbọgwụ na nnụnụ ndị ọzọ na ụlọ ọrụ nri bụ otu n'ime ihe kachasị mma na arụmọrụ kachasị mma. Emebere Humane Down Standard iji nyochaa ma chọpụta isi mmalite ngwaahịa ọ bụla dabere, na-ekepụta usoro njide site na gosling ruo ngwaahịa njedebe. Asambodo RDS gụnyere asambodo nke akụrụngwa ala na ndị na-ebubata nku, tinyekwara asambodo nke ụlọ nrụpụta jaket ala.
6. Asambodo Oeko-TEX
OEKO-TEX®Standard 100 bụ nke International Environmental Textile Association (OEKO-TEX®Association) mepụtara na 1992 iji nwalee njirimara nke ngwaahịa akwa na uwe n'ihe gbasara mmetụta ha na ahụike mmadụ. OEKO-TEX®Standard 100 na-akọwapụta ụdị ihe egwu ama ama nwere ike ịdị na ngwaahịa akwa na uwe. Ihe nyocha gụnyere pH, formaldehyde, ọla dị arọ, ụmụ ahụhụ / herbicides, chlorinated phenol, phthalates, organotin, azo dyes, carcinogenic/allergenic dyes, OPP, PFOS, PFOA, chlorobenzene na chlorotoluene, polycyclic aromatic color, hydrocarbon, aromatic colorant. , wdg, na ngwaahịa na-ekewa n'ime ụzọ anọ dị ka njedebe njedebe: Klas I maka ụmụ ọhụrụ, Klas II maka kọntaktị anụ ahụ kpọmkwem, Klas III maka kọntaktị anụ ahụ na-abụghị kpọmkwem na klas IV maka iji ihe eji achọ mma.
Ka ọ dị ugbu a, Oeko-tex, dị ka otu n'ime asambodo gburugburu ebe obibi maka ụlọ ọrụ akwa, na-achọkarị mmekorita ya na ndị nwe ika, nke bụ obere ihe achọrọ maka ụlọ ọrụ.
Na-achịkọta
Siinghongụlọ ọrụ mmepụta ihebụ onye ndu na ụlọ ọrụ ejiji wee nweta ọtụtụ asambodo na ụkpụrụ iji nyere azụmahịa gị aka ịga nke ọma.
Ọ bụrụ na ịchọrọ ka uwe gị bụrụ enyi na enyi na nke mara mma, elela anya karịa siinghongụlọ ọrụ mmepụta ihe. Anyị na-ejide nkwado na ọrụ mmekọrịta ọha na eze dị ka ihe kachasị mkpa anyị na mmepụta ka ị nwee ike iji obi ike mepụta uwe ejiji na-enweghị imebi gburugburu ebe obibi.Kpọtụrụ anyịtaa maka ozi ndị ọzọ ka anyị ga-esi nyere gị aka iru ebumnuche gị.
Oge nzipu: Mar-28-2024